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Уште една прекрасна репортажа за Кратово на порталот for91days

Nestled in the pit of a volcanic crater about an hour northeast of Skopje, Kratovo is famous for its distinctive architecture, including Ottoman-era towers and high stone bridges. We spent a day exploring its back streets, enjoying the lively atmosphere and walking along the steep ravine which divides the town in two.

Kratovo

Until the gold and silver dried up in the nineteenth century, Kratovo had been a prosperous a mining town. Ancient tunnels still snake through the rock, and the former wealth can be seen in the fabulous old buildings which line the hills. Many of these historic houses and shops have survived intact, and the town largely feels as though it’s been untouched by the hands of time.

We happened to arrive during the weekly market. The streets were swarming with people, all of whom seemed to know each other, and the cafes in the town square were packed. Kratovo might be a small, out-of-the-way town, but it’s very much alive. With so many pedestrians ambling along the roads, driving was nearly impossible, so we parked as soon as we could and started to explore.
The stone bridges which connect the two halves of town are Kratovo’s most impressive feature. There were once up to twenty, though just four remain today. One of these, the Radin Bridge, is the subject of a local legend. Its construction was fraught with difficulty, so the nine brothers in charge of the project decided to consult a local prophet. They were told that, before the bridge could be completed, one of the brothers would have to sacrifice his wife. They agreed that the first of their wives who appeared at the work site the next morning would be chosen. That night, only the youngest brother failed to warn his wife… and when innocent Rada appeared the next morning with food and water for the brothers, they leaped upon her, entrapping and burying her alive within the bridge’s foundation.

Kratovo is also known for its towers, of which there were once a dozen. Today, six remain in various states of repair. The Clock Tower, most conspicuous for its total lack of a clock, has been wonderfully restored and contains a small museum about Kratovo. You can go to the top, and step out onto a small balcony for a great view of town.

With its bridges and plazas, the river is clearly the center of town, and it was tempting to remain here all day, but the back alleys of Kratovo are just as charming. The town is surprisingly big, and the cobblestone streets further up the hill conceal a wealth of gorgeous old houses and an Orthodox church.

Pastrimalija is a canoe-shaped pizza-like bread topped with oil and pieces of pork, and Kratovo claims to have the best in Macedonia. We ordered it at Restaurant Alexandria where, back through the kitchen, you can find the entrance to one of Kratovo’s old tunnels. The waitress allowed us to take a look after we had finished eating. Apparently, these tunnels once connected all twelve of Kratovo’s towers, but they’ve since been blocked off. Another local legend tells of a treasure in these tunnels, lost by a family who had tried to flee the Ottomans underground.

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